9-23 and 9-25 River Rats

For a few more days we were River Rats.  We ended up traveling with seven boats (all Loopers). There are no marinas along this stretch so we had two anchorages with 7 boats.  One was Little Diversion canal, which we filled with all our boats and the other was Bean Branch creek (both on the Ohio)  From Bean Branch Creek we had two hurtles to clear, Olmstead Lock and Lock 52 but are know to have long waits.  The Lock Master at Olmstead said we should be on the river by 7am to have our shortest wait.  At 7am  Steve Lasher gets out his trumpet and plays Anchors Away.  at the end we all started our engines and you could hear the clackety clack of all the 7 anchors being pulled.  We were all under way as the sun rose.  Sun rises are just as pretty as sun sets.img_0270

Sunrise at Bean Branch Creek on the Ohio River
Sunrise at Bean Branch Creek on the Ohio River

The next two locks were not fun.  Olmstead we waited for 3 to 4 hours. It is a new lock that isn’t completed. All boats need to be escorted through. Seemed really ridiculous the way they are doing that. The saving grace in that lock was that it was cooler in the morning.  By the time we anchored it was close to 100 degrees.

Lock 52 we only waited a couple hours.  Luckily the lock master had pity on us and asked a smaller tow if we could tie up to his barge and lock through with him.  You could tell he wasn’t thrilled but 7 boats piled in, 6 tied to the barge (which was a first for all of them)  We had to be tied to a pretty rough oddly shaped wall but we all made it.  The dock hands on the barge were given fruit by one of the boats and in return they were exchanging boat cards running up and down the barges.

It was another 100 degree day.  We were pretty sweaty by the time we got done anchoring.

Our last lock before getting to our first Marina in a week was Barklay lock.  It was a huge lock 52 feet lift

Heading into the Barkley Lock.
Heading into the Barkley Lock.
Our boat Last Call in the lock.
Our boat Last Call in the lock.

.  We were all pleasure boats in the lock this time.  Funny thing happened in the lock.  Steve got out his Trumpet and played.  It echoed off the lock walls and was really beautiful.  When he finished we all cheered.  So he started playing again, when our radios went off.  It was the lock master asking if something is wrong . What’s that noise? One of the boats told him it was a trumpet.  He wasn’t amused.  He said to knock it off. He thought something was wrong. Hee hee

Just outside the lock was our destination Green Turtle bay.

9-21-16 We got us a convoy!

9-21-16 We got us a convoy

We left Hoppie’s with four boats and a fifth not far behind.   We had a pretty uneventful trip. There are very few places to stop on this part of the Mississippi.  We knew we could tie up on a lock wall and the barges docked there and raft off of each other if need be.  When we arrived there was already one boat there.  We did some precision docking.  We came in last and with Scott’s skill at the wheel and lots of people on the dock we shoehorned our way between the first boat and a large cement pillar. Our dinghy was actually under Sanctuary’s anchor and our bow only had a little over a foot clearance.

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Needless to say we used lots of line fore and aft to make sure we didn’t move.  The Corps of Engineers even let one of the boats tie up on the gas barge.  Two boats came in later and one had to tie off to a different barge but had to move at 6 am to let that barge out.  It was a happening place with 7 boats in a tiny space.

It was in the high 90’s and there was no shade and very little breeze.  We all sat on the gas barge in front of a sign saying don’t dock and keep off (but we had permission) It was the only place with a little shade.

At dinner time we fired up the generators until night to use our air conditioning to cool the boat down before bed.  We all slept well.

9-20-16 Hoppie’s and stories from Fern

9-20-16 Hoppies and Stories from Fern.

Hoppie’s Marina is a famous, one-of-a-kind place to stop along the Mississippi. When you first pull in and it’s just a bunch of older barges to tie up to. But what you don’t see is the colorful characters that run the place, Fern and Hoppie Hopkins. (We never did find out what Hoppies real name is) Hoppie’s Dad was a lamplighter in the 1930’s He first built a dock for his boat so he could go up and down his section of the river lighting the Kerosene lamps that lit the way for the riverboats at night.  Every two days they needed to be filled with Kerosene. That is the start of Hoppie’s marina.  When Fern and Hoppie took it over they started to buy barges to make the marina. Fern told us the story of how they purchased each one.

Hoppie had recent back surgery so Fern was running the show.  She is as salty as they get, but boy does she know the river.  She invited all us boat owners to join her under the canopy at 4:30 and she would tell us about the Mississippi ahead.

The famous Fern Hopkins
The famous Fern Hopkins
Our four O'Clock meeting.
Our four O’Clock meeting.

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She shared her knowledge of the river and gave us places to watch out for and places to stop as there aren’t many for the next several hundred miles.

She told us a few stories:

Fern Story #1 She told us a Petty Officer came to talk to them about what they needed to do for Home Land Security.  He went on to tell them they had to put in a fence with barbed wire top and provide a guard 24-7 (all at their expense). They wanted to send them to Louisiana for Homeland Security training etc.  When he seemed to be done, she asked if he was finished and if it was her turn to speak and he said yes maam. Fern now spoke “Well Petty officer, this gray haired lady didn’t fall off the turnip truck yesterday…you can go to hell”

 

Fern Story #2. Hoppie and Fern went to a meeting put on by the Corps of Engineers to discuss their latest tactic of dumping rocks in the river to control certain spots. Fern carried a 5-gallon bucket of water and Hoppie carried a large rock.  When they had their turn to say their piece Fern simply asked the board what they thought would happen if they dropped that rock onto the bucket.  To her utter amazement one of them did it. And of course flooding the room.  Fern said “Well there you have it.  Same things going to happen on the river. She then said to us “Dumb Ass, that our Government at work”

The town of Kimswitch is a quaint little town.  Most of the stores open at 10 and quite a few close at three. I guess you can do that in a tiny town.  The historical society is restoring some old buildings that were log and chink. There is a world famous restaurant called the Blue Owl. They make Levy High Apple Pies.  Tallest pie you have ever seen and then they cover it with caramel and pecans.  They also serve food from 10-3 once again. This restaurant has been on Good Morning America, the food network and two other shows I can’t remember. How they ever found it, I don’t know this is a tiny town. We walked the town the day we arrived and rode our bikes around to see more before we hit the river.  We were there less than 24 hours and I had this much to write.

 

 

9-19-16 Anniversary in St Louis

Just catching up we had no internet for a a week as we cruised the river.  Watch for more to come.

We are still based out of Afton Marina in Illinois, which is a short way from St. Louis. The 19th was our 35th Anniversary.  Scott teased me that he is giving me a cruise for our anniversary.  He’s my funny guy.  We took the rental car in, first to Anheuser Busch for their free tour.  What an amazing place. It is at least as big as a city block if not more.  Much of the older buildings are still intact and still have the nostalgic architecture.

Anheuser-Busch buildings were very ornate.
Anheuser-Busch buildings were very ornate.
This is the horse barn for the Clydesdales.
This is the horse barn for the Clydesdales.
More cool architecture.
More cool architecture.

We saw the Clydesdales and the barn. Of course my favorite part;)

Two were getting their feet scrubbed. They use the gallon size bottle of blue shampoo for those big feet.
Two were getting their feet scrubbed. They use the gallon size bottle of blue shampoo for those big feet.
Each horse has a custom harness made for them.  Man and I thought our horse tack was expensive.  We probably couldn't afford the cases they kept each one in.
Each horse has a custom harness made for them. Man and I thought our horse tack was expensive. We probably couldn’t afford the cases they kept each one in.

We saw all  the brewing, some areas steaming hot others nice and cold.

Four of these tanks make over a million servings of beer.
Four of these tanks make over a million servings of beer.

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Half way through we were given either a Bud or Bud light 4-ounce taster while we watched a video on brew making.  At the end of the tour we were given a wooden token to exchange for a full size beer. All this was free including the parking.  It was Octoberfest while we were there so there was a pipe and drum band and a very festive German feel.  We of course had to have a brat for lunch. (That we paid for)

Next we went to the Arch.  What an amazing feat of architecture. img_0148 We got to go all the way to the top and look out.

5 people squashed into this pod to take us to the top. You could not be claustrophobic.
5 people squashed into this pod to take us to the top. You could not be claustrophobic.

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Our view from the top of the arch.  Amazing
Our view from the top of the arch. Amazing

We ran into another group of Loopers.  We are everywhere.  The next day we actually took our boat passed the Arch, which was really neat.

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By the time we got out of the Arch it was too late to do our plan to go back to the boat, shower, and go to dinner.  We didn’t have lunch until 2:30 so we were not that hungry.  Marcelo (Mallory’s boyfriend) suggested we go to the 360 bar.

Sunset at the 360 Bar.
Sunset at the 360 Bar.

It is on the top floor of the Hilton. It was a really happening place. They had amazing small plates so that was dinner.

It was a really great way to celebrate our Anniversary.

9-18-16 Church, Mudslides, and the desperate screams for help

We actually got out of our shorts and tee-shirts and got respectable and went to church.  It was a good service, the preacher did a great job.  Once we were renewed in our faith we got back to the marina and today’s special was Mudslides.  There is a frozen drink special everyday.  Scott and Steve couldn’t resist.  Teresa and I both are a bit lactose intolerant so we let the boys have their fun.

Mudslides after church.
Mudslides after church.

Screams for help:  This actually happened the first night we were in the marina. It sounded like a woman screaming, Noo Nooo Heeelp  Heeelp, long screams afterward.  We all sat up and took notice trying to figure out where it was coming from.  WE looked down our dock and couldn’t see anything yet it was close and people were sitting out in from of their boats not worried at all.  Then it happened again and again.  There was a certain bird quality to it so we let it go seeing no one else was worried.  We thought it was the the Seagulls at first.  Then we thought someone had a recording to scare away the seagulls.  We later found out it was a parrot on a boar two slips down from us.   I can’t remember her real name but they call her “MABY”  which stands for ” Mean A** Bird”

We rented a car while we were here.  We took several trips into St. Louis, not for fun, but to get Steve’s computer fixed and to purchase and exchange the new defective camera.

Scott and I took a bike ride to the Lock and museum about the rivers and lock.  I took some pictures with my new camera and hope to figure out how to transfer and post them soon.  We came back and did laundry and waited for it at the pool.  There were about 5 other couples there and we all exchange Boat Cards and chatted.  It is truely amazing when you have this trip in common with people that they are instantly your friends and you can talk forever. We have met so many wonderful people already and it is only the beginning.

This is going to be a fun and social trip.

9-15-16 The Mighty Mississippi and a Great Marina.

Today the river changed a little bit we started to see some rocky cliffs and a few houses. All the houses are either on stilts or have very tall cement basements to protect them from flooding.

House on stilts to protect from flooding
House on stilts to protect from flooding

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Remnant of the old days.
Remnant of the old days.

We finished the Illinois River from beginning to end an are now on the Mighty Mississippi. The scenery changed immediately. The river is much wider and moving faster.  Normally without current we run about 7 knots, on the Illinois we ran around 9 knots and on the Mississippi we were running 11.7 knots. Good for the fuel use. There are beautiful cliffs along the river.

The river banks changed drastically on the Mississippi.
The river banks changed drastically on the Mississippi.

Remember when I said “Lock delays…I smell a theme”  We heard that lock 52 on the upper Ohio has broken wickets and they were going to need to shut down to repair.  Traffic will be backed up and Marinas start to get backed up.  We planned to stay in Grafton but they were full so we ended up in Alton Marina in Illinois.  Best Marina ever.  Many of the slips are under cover.  We were too tall to fit. When we got docked and hooked up we were hot and went to get checked in.  To our amazement they had a iced drink machine and even put your choice of liquor in it.  We were sold right there.  They even have a pool, which we immediately took advantage of. Super friendly people. Oh and if you buy 3 nights you get 3 free.  We may take advantage of an extra day or two and let all the backed up boats get through the now fixed lock.

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Will keep you posted on our several day stay and what we are up to.

Karen and Scott

9-14-16 Boring day on the river but fun after anchoring

We hit a milestone today:  We went past the most western part of the loop!

Once we anchored, life began.  I am sure most of you have figured out that we have been traveling with Sanctuary owned by Steve and Teresa Lasher.  We anchored on the Illinois river just behind Big Blue, a mile-long island.  Sanctuary and Last Call then rafted together.  We took our dinghy to go exploring the Island.  We found a little inlet on the other side of the river to explore. It was interesting.  The banks were really steep and some were eroded a long way up.  We wondered if the river could get that high? On our way out we spooked a few Asian Carp. Then a large one jumped right next to me hit the dinghy, splashed us and proceeded to hit Scott right in the arm.  Of course, I screamed which made Teresa scream.  Man we are a pair.  I teased her that if that thing landed at my feet I would have pushed her out to get away from it.  We laughed all the way back to the boat.  When we arrived we were invited aboard Life’s Travails for drinks and snacks.  We shared stories and wisdom as they are almost done with the Loop.  We topped off the night with a shrimp boil on Last Call with Steve and Teresa.

What started out to be a boring day ended in a rather fun day.

Life on a Boat

Life on a Boat

Many things are just like at home.  Get up, start the coffee, brush your teeth, wash your face?  Oh no, there is no hot water from sitting at anchor all night and it is too early to shock my system with cold water in the face.  I plan to do that later after the engines been running for a while making hot water.  In the meantime, the sun comes out so we quick put on sunscreen then later bug spray.  Next thing you know, there is a lock to be handled, lunch to be made and by night you want to get a putty knife to scrape your face before you wash it.

People ask, what do you do all day on the boat.  Scott says “It’s not all sunshine and cold drinks” What? Isn’t that what I signed up for? It is amazing how busy we are on board.  Have you ever heard of keeping things “ship shape?”  Before we get underway, we have to tidy up the boat.  The payment for not doing so, is glasses on the floor. Chairs tipped over, Cupboards open and things all over. Etc.  You may think, “but you’re on the river not on Lake Michigan for heaven sake.” There are these little evil things called wakes.  One bad wake means clean up.

We are forever watching maps, to keep out of danger and to decide where the next stop is.  That doesn’t always work because lock delays change everything.  Locks take a fair amount of time.  Scott drives the boat and I am the deckhand running around putting our fenders and lines out.  I now know how to tie a rolling hitch (knot) without issues and getting more efficient so when the lock master changes sides the last minute, I am not as panicked as I was in the beginning.

Living on a boat means there are certain commodities that are very precious. Fresh water, electricity, holding tank space and most importantly Ice. It would be tragic if we didn’t have ice for docktails.

Water: You learn to not leave the water run while washing your hand or brushing your teeth. You take sea showers ( wet down turn the water off, soap up, then turn the water back on and rinse quickly).   There is no hot soaking showers on board but when we get to a marina we make up for it.

Electricity:  Charge things off the inverter when the engine is running.  You want to save your power, for the fan at night and the coffee in the morning.  These are the important things.

Holding tanks:  We are frugal with the use and sometime share a #1 flush.  Good thing we have been married for 34 years.

Ice:  When we are at a marina with free ice we fill the cooler to the top and put a bag in the freezer.  When we are rolling down the river, we have an ice-maker on board that runs off the inverter. At first we thought an ice-maker was not needed but so glad we have it.

Exercise:  I was worried we wouldn’t get enough exercise sitting around on the boat. When we are docked, we walk and ride our bikes. On board, there is a never ending list of chores.  For instance, this morning I washed all our lines (ropes) and scrubbed our fender because the free dock we stayed at was seagull poop heaven. I have been gaining upper body strength because of Scott’s lifting restrictions after his back surgery.  Dang those tool bags are heavy. I have to heft the bikes up and down, and do any other lifting.  If only this lasted forever, I would be buff. He is up to 20 pounds now so he is starting to do more.

Internet:  It is elusive!  We go many days without having it.  That is why you will see no posts for days then all of the sudden many post.

In some ways life seems primitive, but let’s face it, we live on a pretty cushy boat and are living the dream.  It is amazing how tolerant we have become to accept inconveniences that would normally bug us at home.  This is living life on a boat.

9-10-16 Lock Delays….I smell a theme

10-10-16 Lock Delays… I smell a theme.

We got up this morning and called the lock only to find out they will be busy until 11am.  Well by then we won’t get far enough to make it worth traveling. We suspect we will be seeing a lot of this kind of delay. So what are we to do?  So we went to the Library to work on the blogs and pictures, which by the way I failed miserably at. We aka Scott did laundry while the rest of us sought out the elusive internet.  We all finished about the same time grabbed a quick lunch and hit the river with the dinghies. Just down from us was Starved Rock State Park which is famous for its rock walls. It was really beautiful.photo-sep-10-2-33-57-pm photo-sep-10-2-34-49-pm

water fall coming down the rocks at Starved Rock
water fall coming down the rocks at Starved Rock

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Earlier in the day we saw a fishing boat buzz close by and saw the Asian carp come flying out of the water, just like on the videos.  Apparently our big slow boats don’t make them jump.   On the dinghy ride Scott was following right behind Steve rather close and all I could think of was them upsetting a school of carp and me getting them in the face.  It certainly would have made a good story but thankfully it didn’t happen.  We saw some beautiful rock wall and enjoyed a wonderful dinghy ride but didn’t make it to the State Park.  The wind and waves made for a rough ride and we had 3 more miles to go so we scrapped it.

I decided to come to a coffee shop to try my hand at getting pictures uploaded so I could post them to you.  But once again I failed. Steve is a bit of a computer wiz and he didn’t know why they won’t load. So I don’t feel so bad.

Most of you know I can be tenacious, so never fear, I will persevere.  Some day you will get to see them.  After all I figured out the comment problem. (It only took me a month)  Hopefully by the end of this trip you will get to see pics.

Love to you all,

Karen and Scott

 

9-12 My Story Of The Day

One of the hills . It wasn't even the steepest one.
One of the hills . It wasn’t even the steepest one.

9-12-15  My story of the day

We decided to Stay at East Point Marina in Peoria, IL an additional  day.  It was only $40 for the slip and had free ice and free laundry.  Off came the sheets and towels and any other thing that could possibly need washing. We did housekeeping of which I will spare the boring list.

However, I will share my trip into town.  I needed to go to the nearest pharmacy which was a CVS 1.4 miles away.  Out came the bike and only 1.4 miles…easy peasy.  The first road I got on might as well have been a freeway.  Thank heavens for wide shoulders…that is until I hit construction.  It wasn’t that bad just had to dodge the areas that they jackhammered holes in the cement.   I was feeling good when I got off this road until I got to Highview Road.  The name should have been my first clue.  It was all uphill.  I was so proud of how far I peddled until I had to stop and walk.  At this point I figured I rode at least 3 of the 4 miles. Oh wait, the whole trip is only 1.4 miles.  It sure seemed like 4 miles.  Once I got to the top, I figured I was home free. Zip into town grab my stuff and it will all be downhill home.  That was great thinking until I started down the other side on a steeper grade.  Oh man that means I have to ride uphill both ways.  I get to CVS and there are firemen there doing an inspection.  Halleluiah, my saviors, they know the roads and  cantell me how to get back without the monster hill. Guess what, he laughed at me and yes ma’am there is a route with less hills it’s just 12 miles out of your way. Sigh.

So I get my goods and new water bottle, and hit the road.  The two hills on the way back were twice as steep at the one on the way there.  Yes, I was walking my bike and had nice conversations with all the neighbors who were outside.  We talked about the dreaded hills they lived on.  Finally, I get to the top and a short flat ride later, I am at the top of Highview Road.  It’s all downhill from here. Off I go gaining too much speed but able to control it. I am loving the breeze because as you can imagine by now I’m hot.  That is until my new hat blows off and by the time I can stop, I now have to hoof it back up the hill. I got my hat which has a great saying on it.  “Boat Hair Don’t Care”  I read it and busted out laughing.  What did I go to CVS for? …..Hair Dye.