7-16-18 Pictured Rocks and The Disappearing Tour Boat
Today was a day we were looking forward to…. Taking our own boat by Pictured Rocks National Park. One of the Geological wonders of the world. There are 43 miles of the coast considered Pictured Rocks National Park. 15 miles are the sandstone cliff that make this area a true wonder. We were so fortunate to take our own boat along the entire 43 miles. We took our time along the 15 miles. I might have take a few too many pictures. We left earlier in the day than we wanted to due to anticipated winds kicking up later in the day. It is best to see the cliffs in the afternoon when the sun is hitting them directly. We got to see plenty, but the photos are not as spectacular as they could have been later in the day.
We started to see a few boats in the area, then we saw the kayaks near the arch areas which is very popular.
We saw our first tour boat. These are pretty good size boats. Two decks high and certain much bigger than us. We watched the first one come around the point and shortly after that it was gone. We were watching our charts and were quite sure where it went. A few minutes later we saw it backing out from behind a rock.
When we got closer we saw realize there was a rather large cut in the rocks. Love my Captain. He’s always very cautious, but also adventurous. He knew if that big boat could go in there, so could we. It was amazing! Sheer cliff strait up on 3 sides of us. Beautifully colored and shaped rock. Very cool moment!
Wish I had studied more about the named formations, so I could label then all for you. In my defense I didn’t realize they had named so many points.
Our plans were to anchor in Murray Bay off Grand Island about 3 miles north of Munising. Because of that we didn’t cut in toward the town and headed right for the island. Once again, we saw a tour boat duck into a cave on the Island. So, when in Rome…… We slowly pulled our boat into this much smaller cave. It was like a half circle inside.
Pretty stripes in the rock and water was dripping from the ceiling. This was one of those things that was never on either of our bucket list and we got to do it twice in a short amount of time. What a great way to end the most spectacular view of all our boating.
7-13-18 – 7-15-18 Soo Locks, Lake Superior and Whitefish Bay
We had planned to stay another night and see more of the town, but we felt like we pretty much hit the highlights and it was going to be a dreary wet day, so instead of slogging around in the wet, we took off in our boat headed toward White Fish Point. First stop was the Soo Locks. We were both excited but afterwards realized it was no different than the 115 other locks we had been through. We used the Canadian side which is smaller and designated for pleasure craft. We did not have to pay anything nor did not have to check in with customs as long as we were just locking through. We pulled into the lock and easily picked up the lock cables. The lock master complimented us on how well we did that. Scott said “We’ve done 115 lock, I guess we should have it down pretty well” He also teased that we will probably crash and burn on our next one. There is a lot of room for error in a lock. We have seen many people struggle terribly to grab the cables or come off the wall etc. Not pretty.
Off we went on our first transit of Lake Superior, yes on Friday the 13th. Good thing we are not superstitious. It was calm, warm but half way there we ran into fog. Luckily, we were in the middle of Whitefish Bay which is huge. We had the radar, AIS and fog horn on to make sure nothing snuck up on us. As we approached White Point, the fog lifted. Phew. Never like entering a port when you can’t see.
We had one near tragedy on the trip over. I like to do a cleaning project on the long travel days. After being in the lock, I decided all the fenders were in need of a good cleaning. I loaded all 8 of them on the cockpit floor, got the hose, the soap, the UV protectant and the…….wait where is the Magic Eraser? I started rifling through all the spots where they could be stored. I was in near hysteria with no Magic Eraser. (Ok I might be exaggerating 😉) I found one used one. All was well with the world. That is the first item on my next shopping list. We cannot live on a white boat and not have Magic Erasers.
We pulled into Whitefish Point. We didn’t hug close enough to the wall and stirred up some mud but didn’t go a ground. There is a large shoal right in the middle of the entrance. Good thing we read a lot about every harbor before we enter.
Shortly after tying up, Kelso the Canadian Coast Guard boat docked next to us. Yes, I said Canadian. We thought it was odd too, but they are a research vessel. There was a rather chatty guy who talked to us while . He saw my GRFD emblem on my sweatshirt. He trades shirts and sweatshirts with others. Scott went down and found a clean and fairly new GRFD shirt and in return “I” got a new Canadian Coast Guard Sweatshirt (it was too small for Scott.) What a cool thing to do. Wish we had more GRFD wear on board.
The next day we walked the mile or so along the beach all the way to the tip of White Fish Point.
We were on the hunt for agates. We googled what they looked like and weren’t sure we were actually finding any. My sister, Sharon said that is impossible, they are everywhere on that point. We apparently don’t know what we are looking for. The beach was mounded with small stones. We were pretty loaded down with pretty stones by the end of the day. Now I just need to finds someone to polish them for me. Scott thought it was bad when I collected shells. Hee hee he didn’t even think about rocks.
We continued around the point to the White Fish Bay complex where the light house and many buildings have been restored and turned into historical exhibits. The light house that was originally there couldn’t stand up to the Lake Superior wind and weather and blew down. During the Civil War a new steel light house was erected. They apparently did it right because it is still there today and looks great.
The Edmund Fitzgerald sank off the coast of Whitefish Bay. In the Shipwreck Museum, they had the original bell from the Edmund Fitzgerald. They made an exact replica with all the mens names who died, inscribed on it. It was placed back down on the ship.
The most surprising fact we learned was that most shipwrecks happened because of collisions with other ships. We understand how this could happen after spending two days here. The fog rolls in quickly and is very thick. Ships didn’t have radar back in the day. It rolled in and out several times in our short stay.
We got back to the boat and were relaxing while contemplating what to have for dinner, when a fishing boat came in. I am out of my chair like a rocket while Scott is rolling his eyes at me. I went to ask if they had a fish I could buy. These guys are a bit “salty” (even though it’s fresh water.) The owner said “Naw I only have three dayers.” Huh? What the heck does that mean? Of course, I had to ask. He told me for fresh eating you want “one dayers.” They are fish that are caught and harvested the same day. Three dayers means they were in the nets for 3 days and they are mushy for eating. I wish I would have asked what they do with them, but I didn’t feel it was the right thing to do. We went back to our discussion on what to do with the chicken until…..another boat came in. I was so happy they had ”one dayers!” We ate a wonderful Whitefish dinner on Whitefish Point. Great way to end the day.
We left the Les Cheneaux knowing we would be back. We headed up the St. Mary’s River. It is miles wide at some points yet has narrower dredged spots at other points. There is a lot of freighter traffic on the river. Some are a thousand feet long, they make us feel like a little water bug when they go by us.
We stopped at Lime Island. It is a historical island which we were a bit disappointed in. The hosts were not there and there were no signs explaining anything. Nonetheless it had interesting things to look at. There was supposed to be a fee, but the only guy we met said no fee unless we spend the night. We hiked to the north end on the island to the historic ruins of the kilns they used in processing the Limestone, but nothing explained why, but we suspect it made it into a cement type ingredient as there was a huge pile of what looked like white cement by the kilns.
The island is a nesting ground for the Common Tern. At one time there were 6000 mating pairs on the island. The numbers dropped drastically but are now on the rise with 1500 pairs on the island.
We were tied up on the wall and could have stayed the night, but it was hot noisy and had great potential of having a stinky bird poop covered boat by morning. Plus, they want $22 for a crumbling wall with nothing else. Off to anchor we went. The water was cool and fresh after our hot sticky hike. Not to mention we love the peace and quiet of being at anchor.
The next morning, we headed for George Kemp Marina in Sault St. Marie, USA. We went through the museum and learned a lot about the history of the locks. One thing I never knew, was that an antsy ship captain hit the lock doors and broke them in 1909. Wowsa, that had to have been a mess to fix. The water was pouring through like a waterfall in the photos.
The US side of Soo Locks has upgraded the locks many times to accommodate for the ever-enlarging ships. There are 4 locks on the US side but only two are in use. We watched as 1000’ freighters were locked through.
We were able to go to the top of the History Tower to over look the locks and the whole town. Interesting fact is that the Catholic Church next door funded the $600,000 to build it. The church couldn’t come up with all the funds, so a priest traveled to fund raise for it. It was then given to the city after it was built.
It was a good day with a few scattered showers and we learned more history about our country. When it rains, we pour. We ducked into a winery/brewery for an hour and waited it out.
We had dinner at a quaint little place where we could watch the locks from our seats. They made Pasties the way we do with the meat and veggies chopped into chunks not shredded, like so many are. They were served with an onion mushroom gravy, which was delicious. The wine and beer they served were only their own, and the food was mostly local when they can get it. Love that kind of restaurant. Surprisingly we really liked one of the wines. Most of the Michigan wines we have had are too sweet. Need to try more and keep an open mind.
We left the Marina close to noon and planned to only travel up Lake Charlevoix to find an anchorage. That lake is huge. It took us about an hour and a half to travel from one end to the other. We had a long travel day the next day, so we anchored on Oyster Bay close to Lake Michigan.
Dave Wolfe told us there are two shipwrecks in this bay. You can see them on Google Earth. Once we dropped anchor out came the snorkel gear and off we went ship hunting. We found them quite easily. There were mostly wood planks etc. but was still interesting nonetheless. The one near the nature preserve had more to see. We saw lots of small panfish taking refuge within the wreck. One thing that surprised me, was the moderately sized pike sitting stock still in the weeds. We swam right over him a couple times and he never moved. I never envisioned a Pike hiding out like that. We found out that there are 6 ships buried there. It was the graveyard for old ships. They were brought there and sunk on purpose. It was a great way to spend the afternoon.
The next day we had about a 10-hour day to get to Hessel, MI in the Les Cheneaux Island area. We crossed under the Mackinaw bridge, which is always a thrill. And of course, we threw a penny in the water while under the bridge to assure safe travels. In case the copper mines dry up in the UP they can start dredging under the bridge for all the pennies that have been thrown.😊
Our destination was Hessel in the Les Chenaux Islands. We watched the wind patterns and picked our anchorage, but once again the winds shifted and were not favorable for that side of the land. Not to mention it was predicted to be 10 knots but, we were recording nearly 30 knots of winds. To add to it there was a forest fire up wind of us. So the potential of a rough night at anchor and smelling heavy smoke all night drove us on. We drove another hour into a more protected anchorage with no smoke and had a lovely night along with several sailboats seeking the same refuge. The next day we didn’t really feel like back tracking back to Hessel especially knowing we can come back this way and possibly spend more time there. Onward to Sault St. Marie.
We pulled into Harborage Marina in Boyne City to be close to the Reunion Festivities. Cindy did an amazing job setting this whole thing up. Of course, Dave and the rest of her family pulled their weight too.
For those of you who are not familiar with our situation with the DeVries family, here’s a quick explanation. We are not blood relatives but for 40 years we have been accepted into this family and have been made part of the family. We feel so blessed that they included us in on the Family Reunion.
Friday night was a loose cocktails and dinner at the Forty Acres Tavern at the base of Boyne Mountain. It was our first time seeing many of the family in years. Just outside the Tavern, they have smores for anyone who wants to come. They even would toast your marshmallow for you. What a nice little thing to do for guests.
Saturday was a big day. We started off with beach day at Whiting Park. It was a perfect beach day! Cindy threw it out there to bring any beach/water toys games to share with everyone. They brought their Kayaks. We have our paddle boards, but didn’t really want to deflate and re-inflate them, so in our true quirky fashion… We strapped them together and towed them behind the dinghy as we made our several-mile trek to the park. We no sooner got going when the boards got caught in our wake and flipped over. Of course, this happens when there is a boat close by watching our every move. We wrangled them to the side of the dinghy and got them flipped back over, laughing the whole time. The other boater was laughing at us too. Can’t blame him. We got a lot of stares from other boaters, but we succeeded in our trek. We were so glad we did because someone was on the boards almost all day. Even 81 year-old Grandma Abby sat on the front while Nikki paddled her around. Lots of swimming, playing games and water sports. Dave and kids set up tents for a shaded food area and brought grills coolers etc. I don’t think there was even a hotdog left at the end of the day.
Saturday evening, we all cleaned up and put on nice clothes and met at the bottom of the Boyne Mountain ski hill. They had drinks and appetizers and a buffet dinner. All was nicely done and delicious. Cindy made bags for us all. In it was family tradition things, like Cigars (Grandpa DeVries sold them), Meringue Cookies, Chocolate Letters, Recipe for the Cranberry pudding with hard sauce. Well done Cindy! The boys had a cigar table and were being quite silly. It was a wonderful evening of food and family.
Just when you think it’s over, Cindy provided breakfast for anyone who wanted to come. Everyone brought something to add to the egg dishes she made. We saved Abby Whiteford by bringing an urn of strong Starbucks coffee. Everyone started to head home. Scott went back to the boat to do some cleaning and I stayed for several hours and did laundry and blogged. It was such a treat to have fast internet!
We pumped out, filled with water, did a grocery run and were ready to leave the next morning.
We said our good byes to the Whitefords and Wolfes.
What a fun well planned weekend! Thank you all for making us feel welcome and a part of the family. We truly treasure our relationship with all of you.
We anchored out at Cat Head Bay on the Leelanau Peninsula. It was a glorious sunny warm calm day. There was a nice sand and rock beach that we took the paddle boards to. We walked along and immediately started finding Petoskey Stones. For those that are not familiar with them they are fossilized six-sided coral. It is found primarily in the north western portion of Michigan’s lower peninsula. When they are dry they look like regular granite, but when they are wet or polished the distinct pattern show up.
I didn’t do so well paddle boarding that day. The swells coming from the big lake just took me out a few times. I’m still learning. Scott did great, which is a good thing because he had all the stones in his pocket. He said if he fell in he would just sink and run to the boat. Such a comedian. We swam and floated around on the paddle boards. It was a lovely afternoon.
We got up early on the 4th of July to get to our anchorage early anticipating them to be full for the holiday. We made it into the south arm of Lake Charlevoix, which is where we anchored. Allen, our son, came up to join us for the weekend. He left his car at a Landings restaurant. We swam, paddle boarded, dinghied and had a lovely couple of days. We were not in direct line to watch a big fireworks program, but we had fireworks displays going off in four different directions around us. Some private and some bigger shows that we could still see. No crowds. It worked out well.
The houses on the lake were stunning. So many big houses with expensive boats parked out front! Fun looking at them all!
As usual, we had a fun filled couple days at anchor.
My Uncle Bud and Aunt Audrey live up north tucked away in the wood not far from town. My uncle Bud is what I think of as an animal whisperer. He has a soothing demeanor, a quietness to his voice that just puts everyone including the animals at ease when they are around him. Audrey and Bud are married, but Bud has had a girlfriend on the side for about 4 years. Audrey doesn’t mind a bit because the girlfriend is Gretchen…..Gretchen the Grouse.
This love affair started 5 years ago. Bud would take his ATV through trails out to a wood pile. This sassy little grouse soon became aware of the sound of the ATV and would come to check Bud out. He would talk to her, and she got closer and more comfortable with him. Pretty soon they were Pals. Bud would put a small hand full of cracked corn and sunflower seeds on the ground, which she happily pecked at. Over time, he would sit on a cushion next to “their spot” in the woods. She got to the point that she would sit on his leg. But only if he was wearing blue jeans. She would not sit on him if he had any other type of pants on. We witness one of these feedings. However, she knew we were there and wouldn’t sit on his lap. But she sat next to him happily pecking away as he whispered sweet nothings in her ear. You could see the love in both of their eyes. It was heartwarming to watch them. After a little snack he would walk down the path gently asking her if she wanted to play teeter tauter. I know, I though the same thing…What? There is a pile of branches in a clearing and one of the branches is entwined in the pile but still moves up and down. He told us we could get off the ATV and walk slowly and quietly. Normally she follows along next to him as if they were two friends walking the trail. But because we were there, she stayed in the woods. It was comical to watch her follow along hiding behind trees and standing stick still in the leaves. She blended in so well, it was hard to see her unless she moved. Bud kept up his soft banter with her and pretty soon she worked her way around the far side of the woodpile, so Bud was between us and her. He made the “teeter totter” go up and down and encouraged her to play, but because we were they she didn’t quite get up the courage. He told us she usually will jump on the branch and glide up and down with delight. As we headed back down the trail, Bud told us to watch for a deer. Sure enough, there was a deer who knew their routine and while they played teeter totter, she would come in and clean up the rest of the grain on the ground. The deer didn’t move as Bud approached, but when she saw us she stepped softly back into the wood.
Gretchen has a sense of humor. She is a lovable, quirky, fun bird. One day Bud went out to see her and he couldn’t find her. He became worried, wondering if a fox or other animal got to her. Or she could just be getting old and died. He cut his wood and got back on the ATV with a heavy heart. He then saw something move in the woods. It was Gretchen hiding behind a tree. He acted like he didn’t see her and moved along, the whole time she played hide and seek with him. It was all a game to her. Silly bird.
We got back on the ATV and went back to the house. He no sooner got it parked and “Big MaMa” showed up. This is a doe that also has a love affair with Bud. She is so comfortable with him, that she walked up to the garage telling him she wanted corn. When he went into the garage to get the corn, she went all the way up passed the door looking in to make sure he was getting it. He spoke softly to her, “Big Mama you must have a baby close by” She was bagged up and you could tell she had a fawn tucked away close by, yet she still came to see Bud. Bud asked her for a kiss, which she promptly gave him he then put his hands out with some corn. She ate right out of his hand. Scott and I were standing quietly close by. Big Mama is a special deer who found Bud a special man.
Now if that isn’t enough then add Romeo and Juliet to the list. They are a pair of ducks that came out of the woods right up Bud with no prompting or feeding. Juliette got pretty cozy with him but Romeo was more guarded. Bud eventually got some corn and Juliette started eating right out of his hand. Whenever, Bud was outside, they would show up. He fed Juliet regularly, but Romeo was on guard the whole time. Romeo ate out of his hand only a few times but allowed Juliette to feed til her heart’s content. We didn’t get to witness these two but enjoyed the story.
We then went into the house and in his backyard was a beautiful buck showing his horns, with its velvety beauty, proudly on top of his head. When Bud walks out the back door, the woods stand up. There are critters out there just waiting for him.
We were honored to witness Buds love affairs while Audrey sat back watching it all with a grin of pride on her face.
7-3-18 Frankfurt Michigan Storm Clouds Brewing and a bit of history.
We had a lovely cruise up to Frankfurt which is a cool little town. We went into town to get some exercise. The main street ends at the lakefront beach. People were walking down the street with beach bags and blow up toys on their way from their homes. We found the Storm Clouds Brewery. Cute Name. We sat outside in Adirondack chairs and enjoyed the most beautiful weather.
After cruising around town, we headed across the channel. We were intrigued by a Life Saving Station. There was a wall to tie up our dinghy on, a lovely waterfront. The Life Saving Station has completely been redone. It has been made into a venue with a large deck with lights strung over it. The big doors where the boats came out are beautiful wood that can open if the weather is nice. The door was unlocked, so we went inside. There were historical pictures on the wall. We learned just enough to trigger us to research a little further. Here is what we found out.
1789 The United States Light House Service began.
1790 the Revenue Cutter Service was started. We believe it was to collect tariffs and control smuggling.
1848 US Life Saving Service began (saw 1878 on the sign but google say 1848..take your pick)
1915 The Revenue Cutter Service and the US Life Saving Service were combined to for the United States Coast Guard USCG.
1939 President Roosevelts transferred the Light house Service to the USCG.
There is your history lesson for the day. Hope you enjoyed these fun facts.
6-28-18 Off we go into the wild blue yonder…wait that’s flying. Hitting the dusty trail, wait we’ll be on water. Sailing off into the sunset…sounds just about right. We left Muskegon to start a year + of cruising. We are heading north first to see more of the Michigan coast and wander up into Lake Superior. We are excited to see what we can find exploring another Great Lake.
Day one: Getting back on the water in cruising mode made me realize just how different it is than boating alone. As soon as we pulled out, while Scott navigated I went to work. When we are cruising, we can’t leave the hose, lines and power cords at the dock. Everything needs to be stowed away. The boat was filthy from sitting for nearly two weeks while we traveled to see family and friends in Wisconsin. I was blessed with a heavy dew on the boat. That always makes me happy because I can mop the deck while the crud is soft. In no time I had the decks looking ship shape. Now the inside of the boat is another story. Still have stuff to put away. It’s amazing how organized we are by giving everything a place. That is until we have to find it.
We anchored in Ludington for our first several nights. We had beautiful travel weather but are anticipating some big winds the next two days. We chose to not move north because we had a very protected anchorage for the impending winds and storms.
Our first evening the water was FAC (Flat A** Calm.) Out came my Stand Up Paddle (SUP) Board for the first time. I fell off three times but then got the hang of it. We have been using them every day. Still getting the hang of it. We look a little shaky at times. We used our ankle straps to attach them to the boat rails and we floated around in the water. Refreshing and cool.
Dinghied into town and walked the stores and even took the dinghy to the Maritime Museum. I don’t think they are set up for people to arrive by boat. But we did anyway. Enjoyed learning much about this area and the maritime history.
There is a lovely place called Bier Market in Ludington. It was a very nice market, food looked fresh and they had a great selection. The best part is, you can order a glass of wine or beer at attached bar and take it with you while shopping. All the carts have cup holders.
Our last night in Ludington we encountered quite a swift storm that came in off the lake. The haziness in the photo is from the sand blowing off the beach and over the road into our bay. We were nicely protected, which is why we chose to stay and wait this one out. There was quite a bit of lightning as it came in. If we were to get hit it will fry all our electronics, so what do you do?? You put all your portables, Phones, I pad, Computer, and the handheld VHF radio in the oven. Sounds crazy but the oven walls protect them from the electricity. As the storm died down, we had an island come floating very close to the boat. It was such an odd site to see this thing floating across the water. We half expected pirates to jump out of it.
We enjoyed our stay in Ludington. If was a great place to beat the heat, we stayed cool with a light breeze and lots of swimming. Ludington is a nice town, After 3 nights we were ready to get moving again.